The Light At The Edge Of The World – Point Reyes Lighthouse, CA
To see a World in a Grain of Sand
And a Heaven in a Wild Flower
William Blake
But there is also light.
At the very edge of the corner of this wildness, set precariously on a cliff overhanging a grey and tumultuous sea is a structure of cast iron with a light of 160,000 candles shining out to the horizon. It’s a single beacon of hope, a warning light to guide those lost in the black ocean, a place carefully tended by keepers through nights of unending storm and wind. Or so it was, over 140 years ago.
Ah yes, my friends I’m talking about a lighthouse.
There is SO much encompassed in these old structures from the keepers (& their families) who lived in these mostly remote and uninhabitable locations, to the fascinating science of the Fresnel lens to the history of the areas where they were located. Lighthouses are not just pieces of history, they are beacons of hope and enduring reminders of the unique people who dedicated their lives to them. On top of all that they tend to be in amazing locations and look darn pretty too. What’s not to love??
But for whatever reason, despite the many years we lived in San Francisco (pre-RVing) we never went out to see Point Reyes Lighthouse.
Part of the reason is that it’s a bit of trek to get there.
There are miles of hiking and beaches around the National Seashore and if you’re coming for nature you’ll have an abundance of choice. However, if you’re a lighthouse nut, once you enter the park you’ll need to drive another ~20 miles (~40 mins) around the peninsula to get to the lighthouse parking area. From there you’ll need to walk another ~1/2 mile and then (here’s the butt kicker) you descend 300 steps before you finally connect with the lady herself. So, it’s not for the faint (or weak) of heart.
But it’s so very worth it, despite it all.
We went to see the lighthouse on a overcast Friday morning, leaving doggie at home (no doggies allowed on the trail to the lighthouse). It was a long, windy drive to get there (which, for a gal who gets car-sick like me really takes some effort) but it was also gorgeous, despite the heavy grey skies. We spent an hour hanging by the lighthouse and enjoyed a tour inside the lens room by the ranger (most recommended!) before we engaged our thighs for the 300 steps back to the top. A stop at a remote beach, a mocha in downtown Point Reyes Station and that pretty much swept away the entire morning.
From a place where time stands still, a light at the edge of the world, we came back feeling like we’d seen the whole of Mother Earth in a single spec of a spot. A fabulous place and a…totally…AWESOME….day!!!
Lighthouse Visiting Notes -> Lighthouse is only open, weather permitting (they shut down during high winds) Fridays through Mondays from 10 am to 4:30 pm. LENS room is only open Fridays through Mondays from 2:30 pm to 4 pm. During whale migration season, you may have to take a shuttle to get here otherwise you can drive to within ~1/2 mile of the lighthouse. It is FREE to visit.
Doggie Notes -> NO dogs allowed on the trail to the lighthouse, but dogs are allowed on several beaches (Limantour Beach and Point Reyes/Great Beach) as well as the trail to Kehoe Beach. Click HERE to read about pet restrictions within Point Reyes National Seashore and HERE to download a map (with pet-friendly areas clearly marked).
- Point Reyes Lighthouse Info & History -> Click HERE and HERE
- Point Reyes National Seashore -> Click HERE for official site and HERE for visiting hours.
Related Blog Posts & Awesome Lighthouse Books:
- Blog Post -> Top 10 FAQ -> Lighthouse Volunteering/Hosting
- Book -> Women Who Kept the Lights: An Illustrated History of Female Lighthouse Keepers
- Book -> Guardians of the Lights: Stories of U.S. Lighthouse Keepers
- Book -> A Short Bright Flash: Augustin Fresnel and the Birth of the Modern Lighthouse
Sweet…. That is all…. Lee
Love Pt Reyes! Limantour Beach is one of my power spots on this Earth. My husband & I lived in a horrible apartment in San Anselmo but lived 45 minutes away from Pt Reyes National Seashore and other beautiful spots. That’s why having our own rig and the ability to move and visit these beautiful places is something I so look forward to. We plan on becoming full time RVers in 2years. In the meantime, please let me know if you ever travel through Auburn, CA. I’ll buy you dinner and great artisan beer at the Auburn Alehouse. It would be great to meet y’all!
Thank you for all your wonderful writings. You paint such vivid and beautiful pictures of the places you visit. What a gift you have!
Where do you recommend parking your RV when visiting Point Reyes? I will be in that region and am planning to add this treasure to my itinerary.
Thank you again! Happy and safe travels!
Nikki P.
And Jambalaya (the Orange tabby cat who is pretty sure I got the RV just for him 😉
So there are a few places to park out here, depending on how close you want to be.
We’re parked in Petaluma which is around 30 mins inland from the coast. We’re at the Elks (members only), but there is also a Fairgrounds just up the way from here which has decent rates (for the area):
http://www.sonomacountyfair.com/rv-park.php
If you want to be ON the coast there are a couple of RV parks plus a couple of Sonoma County Parks worth looking at:
-> Olema RV Resort looks lovely and is right AT Point Reyes. This is the very closest spot to stay and where our buddies ravenandchickadee stayed (see their comment and post link below):
https://www.campendium.com/olema-rv-resort-campground
-> Just ~10 miles north of Olema is Bodega Bay which is a lovely spot and has a very nice (but pricey) Marina Park. We have friends who just love this spot:
https://www.campendium.com/bodega-bay-rv-park
-> Also near Bodega, Sonoma County has 2 regional parks that look very nice, although some sites only cater to smaller rigs:
http://parks.sonomacounty.ca.gov/Get_Outdoors/Camping.aspx
Those would be my top picks for the area. If any of my readers have more tips, please do chime in.
Nina
One of the best hiking place on the whole west coast!
I have to agree. From Point Reyes to the Lost Coast just a tad further north is some of the most spectacular hiking I know.
Nina
Thanks for sharing, brings back memories of a 2000 trip. Hope to return one day. Are the bunkers still there or have they been removed?
Hmmm…didn’t see the bunkers? But perhaps we weren’t in the right area? Of course we were so focused on the lighthouse we may not have noticed anything else LOL.
Nina
There is nothing quite like those giant 1st order Fresnel lenses on the west coast, Nina. Thank you for your deLIGHTful tour from another pair of lighthouse nuts!
Nicely said LOL! Yup, we really love those first order lenses. They are just perfect pieces of art and science combined. Anytime we can see one, we make an effort to do so.
Nina
Another beautifully written blog. Great picture of you and Paul with the pretty lighthouse in the background.
Beautiful post, Nina. When we visited Point Reyes for a few days last spring I was wondering if you had been to that sweet and picturesque lighthouse. We fell in love with Point Reyes, the hiking trails, the pastoral scenery, the fabulous farm-to-table food, and of course, the lighthouse. We stayed at Olema RV Park, just on the edge of Point Reyes National Seashore. It’s a very nice park and a convenient location for exploring — as you said, it’s a long and winding journey to get to Point Reyes, so might as well stay out there for a bit. 🙂 http://ravenandchickadee.com/2015/07/serene-and-wild-point-reyes/
Wonderful post and roundup of the area! Cheers for sharing.
Nina
Oh gosh I remember going there when I lived in San Francisco in 1972. What a gorgeous place and your words recreate it beautifully. And thanks for reminding me-it’s now on our list for CA this summer.
Yes, cast iron-whoddathunkit? We have the same on St Croix,USVI- Ham’s Bluff Lighthouse, which is now in terrible disrepair and very sad.
When you get to SoFL though, go to the Jupiter Lighthouse which is brick and has a very interesting history.
Jupiter is definitely on our plans for FL later this year! In fact I’m trying to figure out how many lighthouses we can pack in out there. There are so many w haven’t seen.
Nina
Beautiful!!! What a story!!! Thank you for sharing!!!
Happy Trails!!
The last picture is lovely, a nice sweeping path to take you there
You always seem so content when at your lighthouse, and it is reflected in your your post. Must almost seem like a small homecoming each time you two return.
And, you get to test out the new solar in less then ideal sunshine too:)!
Glad you both landed safely at this harbor from the roads…
Best,
Smitty
Yeah we do love our lighthouses, and I have to admit they make me happy 🙂
Nina
One of my favorite places. I hiked out there with all of my gear to paint it one day.
http://patricksaunders.com/paintings/featured/point-reyes.html
Fabulous painting Patrick! Thank you for sharing the link!
Nina
If I could paint that…just one day of my life…what I would give!
That looks like a great place to visit. Lighthouses are an interesting look at history.
Beautiful ! Thanks for sharing.
You are so close to us! We live in Mill Valley. How long are planning to be in the area? We’d love to treat you to a meal.
The peninsula is one of my special places that you captured beautifully here. The beaches on either side are so different, and I can never decide which is my favorite – so of course I go to both! Great info and pics of the lighthouse which I have never been “down” to. Makes me miss the coast!!
It’s soooo pretty out here. This time around only made it to one beach, and we didn’t go out to see Chimney Rock, so there’s always another reason for us to come back. Next time we’re bringing doggie so we can hang some more.
Nina
Went there several times last Spring. It is the only real Fog Horn I have ever heard and I was too close, so it makes up for the ones I missed.
Beautiful drive past the farms and the beach is awesome.
Very nice post on the Light House. I enjoyed it.
Oh totally! I forgot to mention the fog horn. It was going while we were there too, which was a real treat. So few lighthouses have them anymore.
Nina
Thank you so much for this wonderful newsletter. We are embarking soon as full timers with a 37 ft coach. We live presently in Sarasota Florida and ,as soon as, we get things in order here we will begin our journey. Bob is retired for a number of years as a structural engineer and has owned some businesses. I am a Realtor and have and still enjoy doing my thing. Everyone we meet is doing this. We are watching Little House Nation and marveling at the space saving techniques they are so good at inventing. We are newlyweds having married after losing our spouses as of late. We had a beach wedding in Sarasota and it was amazing. He is a jazz musician , a drummer and I am a keyboardist just learning jazz. Again thank you for sharing your amazing story with us as we live vicariously through you. Mary and Bob
Well congratulations on your marriage and your new upcoming adventures! I have several RV friends who are traveling musicians, and although it can be complicated booking/planning the gigs they just love being on the road and in their “house” wherever they go. Every single one I know who does it, loves it.
I wish you the best of luck and joy in your travels!
Nina
Very happy!
There is treasure at Pt. Reyes but you can’t dig for it because it is on FEDERAL LAND. Sir Francis Drake careened his ship the Golden Hind there. It was full of Spanish treasure and he buried some of his loot there and left for jolly olde England. Did he come back for it or is it still buried somewhere near the lighthouse?
How intriguing! Love good ‘ol gold stories. I keep trying to find the “stash” in Borrego Springs, but haven’t managed yet 🙂
Nina
Thanks Nina, for such a well written post and beautiful photos! Point Reyes is on our list for next winter. Safe travels!
Beautiful pic of the two of you at what is probably my favorite spot (and there are many close seconds) in my home state. You captured its spirit well. We have spent many happy hours not only at the light (yes, I’ve hike those stairs any number of times) but hiking the many miles of trails and beaches in the park. So appreciate the memories. Loving your journey up the coast. Sail on. 🙂
I’d love to come back for some sunset photography. It really is pretty around here, in a very unique way.
Nina
Did you drive over the golden gate bridge on the way from Paso to Petaluma? We plan to go that way next Monday. Love your blog. Thanks Bruce and Dee
No we took the long way around (East Bay 680 to 780). We love San Fran and the Golden Gate, but didn’t want to drive “the beast” through downtown. Our route was nice and easy.
Nina
Oh wow thanks so much!!!! Actually went to Goose Neck SP after reading your blog about it. You are a “Hugh” source of inspiration. Thanks again
Here is a map of Michigan’s lighthouses, the state with the most lighthouses:
http://www.michigan.gov/documents/mshda/mshda_shpo_20110713_lighthousemap_358163_7.pdf
I have never really counted how many the wife and I have been to (been to some out east as well), but we enjoy them as well. One was so small that only one person at a time can go up and down. So the link should help you when you come to Michigan later this year.
We are DEFINITELY planning to hit as many MI lighthouses as we can when we get over there. It’s going to be one of our big goals for that portion of our Fall travels. Can’t wait!
Nina
As you make your way north I hope you have the time to enjoy the “Lost Coast” area of Mendocino and Humboldt counties. I live in the Garberville area which is centrally located for enjoying the best of the region…day trip to Shelter Cove, the very center of the Lost Coast, and enjoy the many giant redwoods in nearby state parks. Let me know if you need any info about the area…I’d be happy to assist.
Point Reyes is one of my favorite places. Whenever we are anywhere close (within 100 miles) we drive out there. Love it!
For musical accompaniment to your next lighthouse trip, try The Lighthouse’s Tale by Nickel Creek…
Love your blog. Hope to be joining you on the road in the not-too-distant future.
Oooo….lovely! I will definitely look it up.
Nina
I saw the link back on Facebook, but I have been waiting to read the blog post…like unwrapping a gift from a friend that you know is going to be particularly meaningful, I waited until the just right moment….for all the reasons you know. 😉
Awww…thank you dear. That’s lovely praise from a person who’s just as big of a lighthouse nutter as me 🙂
Nina
Love, love, love Pt Reyes National Seashore! And the lighthouse is exquisite. We’ve climbed those stairs several times. It was a drive from our home in the Sacramento area but OH SO WORTH IT! We have hiked Limantour beach with more than one of our dogs. Just a wonderful beach to walk or run. You have captured the essence of the Pt Reyes lighthouse. It is so remote. We also liked the lighthouses at Pt Arena and Pt Cabrillo. The hike to the top of Pt Arena is well worth it! They have an original Fresnel Lense as I recall. Enjoy the Pacific Ocean for us. We moved to Tennessee to be closer to kids and grandkids and miss our ocean and Pt Reyes terribly.
I love everything about Point Reyes. We were drawn back time and again when we were in the area. Beautiful photos Nina!