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Lighthouses & Beer – Duluth, MN

August 12, 2016 by libertatemamo 66 Comments

Doesn't that make you warm & fuzzy inside?
Doesn’t that make you all warm & fuzzy?

There are certain things that make me feel all warm and fuzzy inside. You know what I’m talking about right? Like that special blankie you carried everywhere as a kid, or that old, comfy chair that just you’ve sat in so many times it just folds around you like a glove. It’s that feeling of comfort, that deep sigh that escapes your lips when you settle in, that indescribable sense of security and contentment.

What may surprise you (or not) is that I get that same feeling around lighthouses.

When I see an old beauty on the shore, her tower standing tall, steadfast and true. When I see the light that shines so brightly to the horizon, a light that’s guided so many before me, a lifesaver that’s warned and protected for decades or hundreds of years. When I stand there before that historic structure, so full of stories of light keepers, wild weather and dedication. Yup, I get all warm and fuzzy inside.

I’m a lighthouse nut, no doubt about it and I’m not really ashamed to admit it. And as a certified nutter, I’m attracted like a zombie on raw brains to the Great Lakes. And it’s all about the numbers…

The Duluth Harbor Lights
The Duluth Breakwater (Harbor) Lights
The great lakes make up 20% of the world's freshwater lake
The Great Lakes hold 20% of the world’s surface fresh water!
Just look at all those lighthouses! (from lighthousefriends.com)
Just look at all those lighthouses! (from lighthousefriends.com)

There are a mere 11 lighthouses in Oregon, a more impressive 60 lighthouses in Maine, but there are over 125 lighthouses in Michigan alone! The number might be surprising until you’re able to grasp how much water is really out here.

Lake Superior spans a massive area of 31,700 square miles (82,100 square kilometers) and holds 3 quadrillion gallons or 10% (!!) of the world’s surface fresh water. To put that into perspective, that’s enough to cover both North and South America under a foot of water, or enough water that the entire population of earth (all 7 billion people) could drink a half gallon a day for 2,348 years (and no, I’m not making this stuff up). Put all 5 Great Lakes together and you’ve got the largest group of freshwater lakes on Earth containing 21% of the world’s surface fresh water by volume.

Those are mind-blowing numbers and mean these lakes act more like oceans than anything else. They get crazy storms, they generate 40-foot waves, and they have thousands of miles of dangerous nooks and crannies of coastline. Plus they are major shipping arteries. Which is of course exactly WHY there are so many lighthouses here.

Downtown Duluth has lots of old brick charm
Downtown Duluth has lots of old brick charm

We decided to get our first taste of the Great Lakes in Duluth, MN the second-largest city on Lake Superior’s shores. Nestled right at the very Western corner of the lake it shares a heavily active harbor with next-door Superior, WI and together they make up what’s known as the “Twin Ports“. The combo of shipping & location means there are no less than 5 lighthouses just around the city itself, with 2 more within a mere 47 miles. Lighthouse Scooooooooooore!!!

There’s plenty of other stuff in Duluth too. Some good breweries, some excellent beaches and many miles of biking trails & hikes. Oh and wild rice…seriously! Wild rice has been traditionally hand-harvested by the Ojibway along the lakeshore for centuries and it’s still very much a MN thing. Duluthian’s (is that a real word?) eat wild rice much like the Danes eat potatoes. So, if you come here you have to try at least something that contains it.

We arrived on a grey Thursday afternoon and settled “the beast” into a lovely green County Park only 15 minutes from downtown (review coming). The next 2 days we loaded Polly in the car, ran around and explored. Here’s what we got up to…

Split Rock Lighthouse, MN

Split Rock Lighthouse on a grey day
Split Rock Lighthouse on a grey day
Hanging with Polly on the trails
Hanging with Polly on the trails at Split Rock

Located just ~47 miles NE of Duluth, Split Rock Lighthouse is one of those lighthouses that’s been on my bucket list for years. She’s a gorgeous red-brick beauty built on a rocky shoreline high above the lake and her light first lit the water in July 1910. What makes her unique is how well-preserved she is, not just the structure itself but her “innards” too. She still has the original bivalve 3rd order Fresnel lens which still rotates on seven quarts of mercury and still has all the original clockwork mechanism! The keepers houses are also all intact and one of them has been fully restored to 1920’s era. Wow!

I was so keen to see this gal I was the very first person in line for a ticket and the very first and only person in the tower when they opened the door. I think I also freaked out the volunteer keeper a bit because I was there when he wound up the lens and got so excited I might have babbled incoherently and gone rather weak in the knees. After he left and I was able to compose myself I enjoyed 10 glorious minutes completely alone watching the 2.5 tons Fresnel rotate in the lens room {{swoon}}. What a beautiful girl!

VISIT NOTES/ The lighthouse is open 10-6PM daily and costs $10 to visit. If you come outside of visiting hours the gates are open (you can walk around the grounds at no charge), but you cannot enter the buildings or lighthouse. Ground tours are offered, but the lens room & keepers houses are self-guided. More info HERE.

BRING DOGGIE? YES, if there’s two of you. Dogs are not allowed into the historic area of the lighthouse (around the buildings), but they are allowed in the doggie exercise area just outside and on all the other trails inside the state park. You can also take doggie to the pebble beach by the picnic area down the road. Paul and I took turns visiting the lighthouse while the other walked Polly on the park trails.

Split Rock staircase
Brass vents polished fine
A glimpse into the bivalve Fresnel Lens

Two Harbors Lighthouse, MN

Two Harbors Lighthouse
Beautiful Two Harbors Lighthouse
The cool staircase in Two Harbors
The cool staircase in Two Harbors

If you’ve made the pilgrimage to Split Rock, you might as well do the short drive to Two Harbors on your way back to Duluth. This equally beautiful lighthouse is actually the oldest active lightouse in Minnesota and developed in synch with the boom of iron ore shipping in the area. She was first lit in 1892 and consists of a two-story, square, redbrick dwelling with gables facing the south and west, and a twelve-foot-square light tower attached between the gables. She no longer has her original lens (unfortunately), but still boasts a rather interesting twenty-four-inch aerobeacon. These days the lighthouse is in private hands, but she’s beautifully maintained & definitely worth the visit!

By the way for those of you who are “pie fans” there are two famous pie shops in the area. Betty’s is perhaps the better known and most touristy, but the locals apparently all go to Judy’s Cafe. We didn’t try either so I’m leaving that review for you.

VISIT NOTES/ Lighthouse is open May-Oct, 8-4PM Mon-Fri. Cost $5 to visit, self-guided. More info HERE.

BRING DOGGIE? YES, if there’s two of you. Dogs are not allowed into the lighthouse grounds, but there is plenty of space to walk doggie outside around the little lakeshore park. Paul and I took turns visiting the lighthouse while the other walked Polly on the park trails.

Duluth Breakwater Lights & Lakewalk, MN

TWO lighthouse selfie!!!
TWO lighthouse selfie! Do we look happy or what?!
South Outer Breakwater Light
Duluth South Breakwater Outer Light

Downtown Duluth oozes with the charm of old cobblestone roads and restored industrial brick buildings, but our fav part of town was undoubtedly the Lakewalk by Canal Park. Offering over 3 miles of hiking/walking/biking trail, it runs right alongside the lake and ends by the Maritime Museum (free to visit and very cool, by the way) and the man-made Duluth Ship Canal that provides the main shipping entrance into Duluth Harbor.

This is where you’ll be greeted with 3 lovely lighthouse specimens North Breakwater Light (1909), South Breakwater Outer Light (1901) and South Breakwater Inner Light (1901) which are all in wonderful condition. None of the lighthouses are open for visitation, but you can walk right up to them on the pier and (if you’re lucky) even snap a selfie with 2 of them in the same frame. A great little outing, especially when the weather is nice.

VISIT NOTES/ Lighthouses are not open for visitation, but you can walk right up to them on the Canal piers for free. If you want stamps for your lighthouse book, you can get them next-door at the Maritime Museum.

BRING DOGGIE? YES. The lakewalk and the walk out on the lighthouse pier(s) is dog-friendly.

North Breakwater Light
Inner Breakwater Light and the Aerial Lift Bridge
The lovely Lakewalk

Wisconsin Point Lighthouse, WI

Doggie and lighthouse
Two of my loves -> doggie and lighthouse

The last lighthouse outing we did from Duluth took us just over the bridge to the WI side and down a long natural sand spit. The lighthouse at the top of Wisconsin Point (also known as Superior Entry Lighthouse) is another gorgeous specimen located at the end of a long rocky pier. It’s a bit of an expedition to get here (long, bumpy road), but if you make the pilgrimage you’ll find not only a very pretty lighthouse but over 2.5 miles of fine red dog-friendly sand beach, woods and trails. It seems to be a local kite-surfing spot too so you might get to see a few kite-surfers zoom across the waves. This area is remote, wild and gorgeous!

VISIT NOTES/ Free to visit. Road to the point is open 4AM-11PM. You *can* scramble over the rocky pier out to the lighthouse, but it’s considered dangerous and at your own risk. When we were there the waves were high and there was no way we were willing to do it.

BRING DOGGIE/ YES. Lovely, dog-friendly beach to romp w/ doggie while you enjoy the lighthouse view.

Duluth South Breakwater Inner Light
Wisconsin Point Light
Split Rock from below

Breweries & Beer

There is quite a serious brewery scene in the Mid-West and when we hit Duluth we knew we had to try at least a few of the local options, even if we only had 2 days to do it.

Paul enjoying the flight at Thirsty Pagan
Paul enjoying the flight at Thirsty Pagan

Fitgers Brewery, Duluth, MN – Fitgers Brewery is actually more like a brewery & mall all-in-one. They occupy a huge building by the Lakewalk, offer several different bars & restaurants on-site and seem very popular indeed. The beers were decent, but not outstanding in our opinion. The Apricot Wheat was tasty, as was the Mariners Mild, but the Hefeweizen was actually my fav here and would do well for a hot day. We also tried the burgers which were decent, but not overly exciting. No dogs allowed here.

Thirsty Pagan Brewery, Superior, WI – We hit this brewery with Polly on the way back from visiting Wisconsin Point Lighthouse and it was the perfect spot to quench our thirst. Thirsty Pagan Brewery have a cozy pub-style interior and 4 outdoor tables on the sidewalk where you can sit and enjoy a brew with pooch. Lovely set of beers here and much higher quality than Fitgers IMHO. We particularly enjoyed the Burnt Wood Black Ale, the Pagan IPA, the Saison and the Triple Belgian (the latter was Paul’s fav). They apparently serve a good Pizza here too, but we didn’t try it.

Sadly we missed the Bent Paddle which was closed while we were there.

BRING DOGGIE? YES to Thirsty Pagan, NO to Fitgers.

Fitgers Brewery
Choices at Thirsty Pagan
Polly doesn't see the point in beer
Rainy sunset at our campground lake
Rainy sunset at our campground lake

That’s about all we managed in our short 2 days in the city. We hit quite a bit of rain, especially on our 2nd day so we didn’t get to try any of the extensive bike trails, many of which looked very much Nina-friendly. We did however discover an excellent grocery store, Whole Foods Co-Op which also carried some outstanding local gluten-free bread from 3rd Street Bakery, so I you need to stock up on veggies and specialty stuff that’s your spot.

From here we move Eastwards towards the middle of the south shoreline of Lake Superior. Got several stops planned, all rather fast but hopefully giving us enough time to get a taste of more of the Great Lakes. Onwards we go….

Useful Links:

  • Visit Duluth -> Main visitors page. Link HERE
  • Duluth & MN Lighthouses -> Click link HERE (map)
  • Duluth Breweries -> Click HERE
Yup, all warm and fuzzy, am I
Yup, all warm and fuzzy, am I (Wisconsin Point Light)

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We LOooVE Comments, So Please Do

  1. Lara says

    August 13, 2016 at 11:31 am

    I am totally excited to check this area out and recently had a conversation about the pie and other places in the area with a woman at a historical site in Bloomington, MN. I saw some lighthouses on the eastern shore of WI when leaving Door County plus one on Lake Winnebago in Fond du Lac (free and open to the public with a nice view and history/photos documented inside it.) Loved Lake Michigan and eagar to see Lake Superior!
    Fun times!

    Reply
  2. Jodee says

    August 13, 2016 at 11:31 am

    I thought Split Rock was the prettiest lighthouse I’d seen when the picture came up – but Two Harbors definitely comes close. How wonderful to see them both – and so many more!! I can tell you’re in lighthouse heaven 🙂 We have to see the northern part of MN next time through for sure. Good to see Polly looking so spry – you and Paul too :-)))))

    Reply
    • libertatemamo says

      August 13, 2016 at 12:01 pm

      I have to admit we’re enjoying the lighthouse abundance up here. Been hitting some rainy weather which had been hampering our efforts a bit, but hoping for some sunshine soon. It’s a pretty area of the country.

      Nina

      Reply
  3. Chris says

    August 13, 2016 at 1:35 pm

    I have been to Split Rock lighthouse many times since I was a child. She is a beauty. I have stayed overnight at the lighthouse in Two Harbors, as it is a bed and breakfast run by the local historical society. I got to watch one of the big ships dock late one night from my bedroom window! Cool!

    Reply
    • libertatemamo says

      August 13, 2016 at 1:37 pm

      Sweeeet! What a great memory!
      Nina

      Reply
  4. Debbie says

    August 13, 2016 at 1:46 pm

    We loved our time along the southern shoe of Lake Superior last year and was fun to see your pictures again. We enjoyed the campground and food in Two Harbors including the wild rice in everything. Duluth was a great place to visit also. Glad you are getting your lighthouse fixes.

    Reply
    • libertatemamo says

      August 13, 2016 at 5:53 pm

      The wild rice thing was a total surprise to me. I ate it as a child in Asia, but I’d never really seen it in the USA before, at least not on a regular basis. I couldn’t really understand why all the restaurants in MN were offering wild rice until I read about the history. So interesting.

      Nina

      Reply
  5. Chuck Brandner says

    August 13, 2016 at 3:36 pm

    Some years ago we traveled to Minnesota while pulling a trailer and had an awesome time and we decided to visit my sister in Michigan and agreed to meet her in Sault Ste. Marie. Instead of taking the southern route we chose to go around Lake Superior on the Canadian side and I have to tell you it is the most beautiful drive in North America. We were simply blown away… if you ever get the chance, take that drive. You will fall completely in love!!!

    Love your words and pics.

    We hit the road fulltime in the spring of 2019… hoping to see you in our travels.

    Chuck and Tammy

    Reply
    • libertatemamo says

      August 13, 2016 at 5:51 pm

      One day we definitely want to do this whole drive on the Canadian side. In fact I have a dream of driving entirely across the continent on that side. One day…

      Nina

      Reply
  6. Diana and Jim says

    August 13, 2016 at 4:09 pm

    Love this post, Nina! Split Rock is a gem, isn’t she? Two Harbors was built the same year as Old Mackinac Point, and you will note some similarities in the design. We loved the Duluth area when we were there.

    If you do get to Mackinaw City, be sure to stop into the Great Lakes Ligthouse Keepers Association directly across the street from Old Mackinac Point. Great people, and they can give you tons of information.

    Have fun!

    Reply
    • libertatemamo says

      August 13, 2016 at 5:50 pm

      We sure will. Can’t wait to check out Mackinac. That’s another “bucket list” lighthouse for us.

      Nina

      Reply
  7. LuAnn says

    August 13, 2016 at 4:16 pm

    We made it to Split Rock and Two Harbors Lighthouses but didn’t make it to Duluth, as we toured the North Shore up to Isle Royale NP. Duluth looks like a city we should have included. Excellent photos of lighthouses Nina. And that sunset shot looks so serene.

    Reply
    • libertatemamo says

      August 13, 2016 at 5:54 pm

      There’s so much coastline here it’s hard to see it all. I knew the Great Lakes were big before we came here, but I don’t think it *quite* hit me how big they really were until we were actually standing in front of them. It’s such an odd feeling to be at a “lake” and not be able to see the other side.

      Nina

      Reply
  8. Greg Reynolds says

    August 13, 2016 at 7:07 pm

    Hi, Fellow Travellers! Great shots of the lighthouses!
    We are leaving the SOO after loving to watch the huge lakers traveling through the locks. A major “highway” supplying incredible tonnage to the rest of the Nation and Canada. Watching a huge laker passing by from our campsite at Soo Locks Campground. Friendly staff, good amenities, right on the river.
    Heading to Munising tomorrow, will check out the lighthouses (didn’t know you were there when we booked it), then off to Duluth to see the Tall Ships Festival. Have to boondocks there, as everything in the full service parks for 50 miles around has been booked for this since February!

    Reply
    • libertatemamo says

      August 14, 2016 at 5:14 am

      The Tall Ships sounds like sooooo much fun! We’re doing the exact opposite of you. We’re in Munising for 1 day only and then zooming to Sault St.Marie next! I’m hoping this rain lifts and we’ll finally get some clear weather.

      Nina

      Reply
  9. Greg says

    August 13, 2016 at 7:26 pm

    I spent 11 of my 21 yrs in the Coast Guard on the Great Lakes and share your love for these old Maritime sentinels. So much so that I replaced the awful Winnebago art in my Horizon with Leo Kuschel lighthouse prints. Leo was a very gifted artist who specialized in lighthouses and ships of the Great Lakes. His print of Split Rock LH is one of my favorites. Google Leo Kuschel prints to see was he lefts us (he passed last April at 83).

    Reply
    • libertatemamo says

      August 14, 2016 at 5:07 am

      Oh how lovely! I will certainly look up his art work. We have a lighthouse night-light and several other lighthouse-themed stuff in our rig. Gotta have a sentinel somewhere even if we can’t be close to one in real person.

      Nina

      Reply
  10. jilmohr says

    August 13, 2016 at 7:32 pm

    great post…although I am not a nutter about lighthouses I can appreciate their beauty and diversification..(we did visit a few while in Michigan) .BTW you would love the ones in New Foundland..

    Reply
    • libertatemamo says

      August 14, 2016 at 5:12 am

      I’m sure I would. The East Coast lighthouse have so much more history too. A lot older than the West.

      Nina

      Reply
  11. Judy aka meowmomma says

    August 13, 2016 at 7:39 pm

    Funnie! You’re there…we’re in Oregon actually traveling this summer! We’ve been to the lakes! Had Betty’s pie! It was worth the very very long wait on a Sunday!

    Have fun!

    Reply
    • libertatemamo says

      August 14, 2016 at 5:10 am

      Good to know the pie is worth it. There’s certainly a dedicated following both online and at the shop. Parking lot at Betty’s was full even on the Monday when we went through.

      Nina

      Reply
  12. Pam Wright says

    August 13, 2016 at 7:43 pm

    We loved Lake Superior and Duluth, too. We did get to ride the trail on our bikes several times. We did the Fitger Brewery, as well! Glad you are getting to see so many lightbouses:) Your face is going to ache by the time you leave this area from your continuous grin:)

    Reply
  13. Dawn from Camano Island says

    August 13, 2016 at 8:25 pm

    Thank you for sharing information with us about an area of the country I’ve never visited & probably few of us have. I had no idea how large the Great Lakes were singularly & cumulatively!

    The lighthouses are gorgeous! They look as if they’re very well-preserved & loved.

    It’s wonderful seeing Miss Polly looking so chipper & happy! You’ve all been through a lot the past few months.

    Happy Trails, Nina & Paul

    Reply
  14. Terry Moorefield says

    August 14, 2016 at 5:24 am

    Thanks for sharing! You always make us feel like we’re there! We’re hosting a Lighthouse in Michigan now for two weeks.

    Reply
    • libertatemamo says

      August 14, 2016 at 6:11 am

      How cool! Which lighthouse are you at?

      Nina

      Reply
  15. Adam Doolittle/Kate McCallum says

    August 14, 2016 at 6:35 am

    Great write up Nina! It’s amazing to see how different all of these lighthouses are. Here on PEI, many of the lighthouses are very similar to one another. To see how different each structure is in regards to these lighthouses is incredible.

    Reply
    • libertatemamo says

      August 15, 2016 at 4:57 am

      There’s definitely lots of variety here. Interesting for me to see the red brick options and some of the square towers (we don’t have those in Oregon). Lots more to come…

      Nina

      Reply
  16. Renee says

    August 14, 2016 at 7:25 am

    Oh! We are in the same neck of the woods! Will you be going to Mackinac Island or ? In the next couple days? Would love to meet up with you two (or three) and share a beer and story or two, if you are open to it. We will be at Sleeping Bear tonight, Wilderness Park for a couple nights, then on to Munising on Wed. Hope to visit Mackinaw on Tues or Wed.

    Reply
    • libertatemamo says

      August 16, 2016 at 5:04 am

      Hi Renee,

      We’re not scheduled to be in Mackinaw until later this week (maybe Friday?). We’re currently in Sault St.Marie, and will have to see if we can snag a spot somewhere in Mackinaw later this week. I think you might be gone by then?

      Nina

      Reply
      • Renee says

        August 16, 2016 at 7:51 am

        Like ships passing in the night. Dang! We are heading to Mackinaw Island in the morning, then on to Munising. Will watch for another opportunity in the future. Enjoy! I heard that Sault St Marie had great town parks for ship watching. Thanks for continued inspiration!

        Reply
        • libertatemamo says

          August 16, 2016 at 2:11 pm

          Yup we’ve got a nice water view site here in Sault St. Marie. Hoping to get to Mackinaw next, but everything is booked solid. We’ll see…

          Nina

          Reply
  17. Kent says

    August 14, 2016 at 7:40 am

    ” And as a certified nutter, I’m attracted like a zombie on raw brains to the Great Lakes.”……..
    HaHaHa! …. Way, way too funny!

    Although not the Great Lakes for me, I too am a “certified nutter”. I go off on tangents.. I am one who stops by the side of the road to stare at and ponder the deeper meaning in shiny objects more often than not..

    They tell me I may be crazy.. But deep inside I know.. 🙂

    Thanks Nina for sharing your awesome photo’s, writing, trip reports, info and most of all thoughts..

    Reply
    • libertatemamo says

      August 15, 2016 at 4:56 am

      It’s good to have a healthy tangent is what I say, especially if it gets you outside 🙂

      Nina

      Reply
  18. Carolyn Burelbach says

    August 14, 2016 at 9:37 am

    Love all your posts, pictures and statistics (I am a Maryland Master Gardener). Very beautiful and interesting. I am putting this on my bucket list. Thank you.

    Reply
  19. Smitty says

    August 14, 2016 at 9:55 am

    Yep, another set of great pictures:)!

    Don’t know your direction, but we really enjoyed all that Racine, WI had to offer. The SC Johnson tour, as well as the Johnson family home, worth the trip alone. Toss in 10+ Wright Homes in the area, and a bonus old lighthouse too.

    We enjoyed this park:

    http://www.rvparkreviews.com/regions/wisconsin/caledonia/cliffside-county-park

    Some cut pathways thru the taller grasslands around the park, makes for some good hiking and doggie’s sure seemed to enjoy it too.

    Travel safe, and I know you two will keep having fun:)!
    Smitty

    Reply
    • libertatemamo says

      August 16, 2016 at 5:05 am

      Lovely tip! We kind if rushed through WI to get to MI, but tears a great tip from r when/if we go back.

      Nina

      Reply
  20. Bruce says

    August 14, 2016 at 9:55 am

    Thanks for this stop in your journey. You continue to nurture my adventure lust and inquisitiveness of lighthouses and related relics of this beautiful country.

    Impatiently waiting for the next installment …. (tap, tap, tap)

    Reply
  21. Bob Ryan says

    August 14, 2016 at 12:59 pm

    Really enjoy reading your travel posts. Hope you have/had time to visit our favorite place up the north shore Grand Marais, MN.
    If you do, you will enjoy all the galleries and eatery’s. Angry Trout Grill is the best ! You can sit right on the lake harbor and the food and view is awesome !

    Reply
    • libertatemamo says

      August 15, 2016 at 4:55 am

      Nice tip! Don’t know if we’ll have the chance to stop, but if we do I’m adding that restaurant to my list.

      Nina

      Reply
  22. Tom says

    August 14, 2016 at 6:20 pm

    Enjoyed your post.

    Reply
  23. Terry McKnight says

    August 14, 2016 at 7:13 pm

    We are currently in MI on the Leelanau peninsula NW of Traverse City. We love the area and have traveled around the state enjoying the lighthouses for a number of years. Beside lighthouses MI has quite a few good breweries. One is Founders in Grand Rapids. If GR is not on your stop list Founders ‘Dirty Bastard’ is a very excellent ale that can be found around the state in bottles and is excellent in the bottle. I’m an IPA man, but this ale is most excellent! By the way, there are 24 wineries in the Traverse City area, also.

    Reply
    • libertatemamo says

      August 15, 2016 at 4:54 am

      We looooove Founders. One of our fav breweries. We hope (maybe) to make it up there if we can. Paul also likes “Dirty Bastard”. He’s an IPA man through and through.

      Nina

      Reply
  24. Eric Rondeau says

    August 15, 2016 at 6:22 am

    You two are in our back door. Kristy and I were up in that area last week. Come to Door County that’s where our Seasonal spot is. We’ll take you on a local Brew Tour 🙂

    Reply
    • libertatemamo says

      August 16, 2016 at 5:02 am

      I had to look that up, but I found your location. Cool spot to spend the season! I don’t know if we’ll be making it to that side of the peninsula, but if we do I’ll def let you know!

      Nina

      Reply
  25. George Yates says

    August 15, 2016 at 8:31 am

    I have lived around the Great lakes most of my life and enjoyed many lighthouses and boating on most of them. Love watching the freighters as well. Enjoy you time in the area, so much to see.

    Reply
  26. David T Williams says

    August 15, 2016 at 8:37 am

    We are lucky enough to live halfway between Duluth and Two Harbors. My wife was a park volunteer at the adjoining State Park (cart/walk in campsites only) for a few years after she retired.

    Professionally, I have been involved in understanding how air and moisture travel through the double skin of Split Rock Light. The lighthouse is actually a steel structure clad in and out in brick. The builders of old put perforated brass vents low on the inside and steel hoods high on the outside to keep the steel dry, but they could be a bit bigger, especially with all the heavy breathing from people climbing the stairs.

    We smoke bombed the vents to make sure they were working: have some cool photos of that. (And yes they do still work, but some caulking needed around the windows.

    Reply
    • libertatemamo says

      August 16, 2016 at 4:59 am

      Cool info and history! Quite a few lighthouses on the west coast are double-walled and have those same type of vents (they still work in Cape Blanco too), but I had no idea Split Rock had steel underneath that red brick exterior. Somehow I totally missed that when we were there. And how interesting to be involved in that part of the lighthouse. Thanks so much for sharing that! Love it!

      Nina

      Reply
  27. Luna says

    August 15, 2016 at 9:26 pm

    As a long-time Duluthian (yes, it’s word :D) — but who’s out on the road now instead — I really enjoyed reading and seeing your take on my home patch. Got a bit mistily nostalgic.

    I know you won’t be there, but in November, on the anniversary of the sinking of the Edmund Fitzgerald, they light the light at Split Rock. Being out on the big lake in a kayak to watch it is a neat experience.

    Don’t know where you are heading (and there are so many nice spots), but you might enjoy the Keweenaw Peninsula, which also has some pretty lighthouses (some a bit more secret than others).

    Reply
    • libertatemamo says

      August 16, 2016 at 4:55 am

      Duluthian is a real word! I love it! Really enjoyed exploring your old home town. It’s a vibrant little city and packs in so much more than I ever imagined. It was a lovely introduction to the Great Lakes area.

      Nina

      Reply
  28. Karen says

    August 16, 2016 at 7:26 am

    We are spending the summer as volunteers at Grand Portage National Monument – up the shore from Duluth just short of the Canadian border. Never knew this part of the world was so beautiful or had such wonderful weather in the summer. We have hiked in all the state parks along the North Shore and had supper at Betty’s Pies. Not only are the pies delicious – the pasties are also excellent. The Coho Cafe in Tofte is another great place to eat along the shore. We now have wild rice as a staple in our cupboard.

    Reply
    • libertatemamo says

      August 17, 2016 at 2:35 pm

      What an awesome volunteer gig! Cheers for the extra tips in the area too.

      Nina

      Reply
  29. Furry Gnome says

    August 16, 2016 at 10:37 am

    Welcome to the Great Lakes!

    Reply
  30. Constant Critic says

    August 16, 2016 at 5:41 pm

    When I was but a wee living in Two Harbors with a view of the lighthouse out our back window, it was all rather mundane. The lighthouses were old and run down and I think you could tour for free. The rocky shore inside the breakwater was lined with old dilapidated boathouses, some still in use. The iron ore tankers would come in to the bay on a regular basis with assistance from the Edna G. tugboat and get loaded from trains a hundred feet above. In the winter they would crash through the thick ice like it was slush. My favorite place was the museum. It was packed with cool and interesting things from days long past. They have since renovated and all the cool stuff is gone. We would play on the steam trains on display. I remember the storm of the Edmond Fitzgerald and the waves crashing high over the breakwater while the foghorn wailed. I would fish from that breakwater trying to catch a great northern pike. That was lifetimes ago and a very different world of miners, hippies, wilderness, bears, smelt fries and old cars. It was exciting and interesting times. It seems so quiet now. I loved growing up there.

    Reply
    • libertatemamo says

      August 17, 2016 at 2:36 pm

      Love hearing people’s personal stories about an area we visit. The “mundane back yard” thing is a common phenomenon when you live somewhere. We lived in San Francisco for years and although I always thought the city was pretty, I don’t think I ever realized HOW pretty it was until we left. Thanks for sharing your story!

      Nina

      Reply
      • Constant Critic says

        August 18, 2016 at 8:36 am

        There were mornings I would awaken to a dense silence, as if the world outside had ceased to exist.
        I eased out of my warm cocoon for a look through the pane to discover the house had lifted into the clouds. No, not just the house, the yard and the lake too.
        Then a familiar calling, deep and reassuring, somewhere distant, further than usual. The fog horn could barely penetrate the damp mass.
        Then a flash. Piercing the cloud with insistent determination, the light of the house on the rock would not be quenched. Electricity burned through her filament and heat traveled through her giant eye focused intently on the shrouded horizon. A deep yellow beam, the accidental wavelength of a power hungry orb and the tinted impurity of the glass, perfect for penetrating into the void. Sweeping the fog, ghosts scattering in the light, she sliced futilely over the lake. The fog horn moaned, then listened, deep silence, moaned again.
        Success! Mission accomplished, the giant rope of light snagged a ship and its deep red hull materialized slowly from the mist, pulled along the beam from a distant mysterious realm into the safety of the harbor. The fog horn yawled like a cow guiding her calf. The tug at her side shouldering her into dock. It all happened so silently, so efficiently, so easily missed by those still dreaming.
        Even in the earliest hours when all are asleep and the air rests heavy while the land and the lake float in the clouds, there is never nothing going on.
        A story for you, Nina, of lighthouses and wonder, from one morning in my childhood. At the time, only the lighthouse seemed mundane.

        Reply
        • libertatemamo says

          August 18, 2016 at 8:53 am

          Very poetic and well-written. Love it!

          Nina

          Reply
  31. Jerry Arnold says

    August 17, 2016 at 9:58 am

    Awesome lighthouse photos!

    Reply
  32. DonnaSue Flanders says

    August 17, 2016 at 12:07 pm

    hi. I have just found your site and love it. We are from MN and love Duluth and the lighthouses. We have always wanted to fulltime rv once we retired,We got a few snags with Our daughter having major anxity and very high IQ yet many social issues so she will likely always be with us and no income. I was diagnosed with cancer and 2 weeks to live almost 7 years ago. I have been disabeld sence never knowing what each day will bring. we use to travell on the road all the time motels,can,t do that anymore but we can travel in an rv so now that my husband (steve) is 2 1/2 years ftom retirement planig stages are starting.
    I have a question about rv memberships. I found american campground membership that is $10 a night at public rv parks have you heard of it and if so what do you think?
    Thanks for all your effort on your blog i look foward to reading it all. Thanks DonnaSue

    Reply
    • libertatemamo says

      August 17, 2016 at 2:40 pm

      So very sorry to hear of all your troubles. Regarding campground membership I’ve never heard of American Campground and that makes me very suspicious. I don’t know of any “membership” deal that gives you $10 camping at public parks. Each state is different and managed individually so I don’t believe the deal is real.

      What I’d recommend for you is looking into the Golden Age Passport (senior passport) which offers 50% off camping in National Parks, National Forests and COE. Also check for disabled passes for your state. Many states offer either discount camping or (sometimes) a limited number of free camping days. I’ve got more about memberships that I recommend in this post:
      RV Camping Club Memberships – Are They Worth It?

      Nina

      Reply
  33. Kim Nowelll says

    August 20, 2016 at 6:54 pm

    Awesome post and did not realize all the information you put in there. Especially all the lighthouses. I could feel your excitement as I read the post and think its awesome. Definetly postmarking this to check these out. Thanks so much for sharing and happy travels.

    Reply
  34. Bill Widmer says

    August 28, 2016 at 3:58 pm

    Hey Nina and Paul!

    Thanks for sharing all the info about lighthouses – I had no idea there were so many out there! My mom loves lighthouses too. I’m hoping we can take her to one soon. I think it would make a nice birthday present, but unfortunately, her birthday is on Christmas…

    Maybe I’ll call it a Christmas in July gift haha. Anyway, thanks for writing this up! I can tell you put a lot of work into it. 🙂

    Cheers!
    Bill

    Reply
    • libertatemamo says

      August 28, 2016 at 4:09 pm

      Well, depending how nuts you want to go you could actually celebrate Christmas at a lighthouse! Many lighthouses have restored (and furnished) keeper houses that are rented to the public (e.g. North Head in WA is an example). Some lighthouses even put up Christmas trees and create a festive atmosphere (e.g. Dungeness Spit in WA comes to mind). It’s not cheap, but it’s a totally unique experience and it happens at many lighthouses across the country. Not sure which part of the country you’re in, but perhaps it’s a possibility?

      Nina

      Reply
      • Bill Widmer says

        September 1, 2016 at 4:56 am

        Hey Nina, thanks for the reply. 🙂

        Christmas in a lighthouse sounds awesome! I’m sure she’d love that. She lives in the NE of Pennsylvania. No lighthouses near us, unfortunately. 🙁

        Maybe one day, though!

        Reply
  35. Ron & Meredith Evans says

    August 30, 2016 at 6:07 pm

    WOW!! Seems you were in Duluth the same weekend we were! Ron has absolutely fallen in LOoooVE with your posts and reads them religiously! Thanks for the inspiration and the encouragement! We have yet to buy our RV but…..it’s coming, and I’d love to share our picture of the lighthouse at Split Rock…..I’m going to recreate it in stained glass.

    We also went to the falls and ate at Joe’s Pickwick Tavern. It’s not a craft brewery, but they have a FAB selection of beers and the food was just as good as the stories from this 1914 tavern!

    On your next trip to Duluth you MUST stop at Gooseberry Falls. AHHHHHHmazing! and then there’s also Enger Observation Tower and the surrounding gardens. Also glorious!

    Thanks for the beauty you share!

    Reply
    • libertatemamo says

      August 31, 2016 at 5:23 am

      Oh I’d LOVE to see your stained glass creation if you decide to make it. Do send me a pic if/when you do!

      Thanks for the lovely compliments and the extra tips. Sorry we missed each other in the area.

      Nina

      Reply

Trackbacks

  1. CP Campground Review – Indian Point, Duluth, MN – Wheeling It says:
    August 15, 2016 at 1:32 pm

    […] Location = 5/5 This is a great location to explore Duluth and the surrounding area. The campground is off the road on a very green point so it feels separate and remote, yet you are only ~15 minutes from downtown. There is access to a great bike/hike trail (Superior Hiking Trail) just down the road, and you are only a few minutes from the zoo too. Relaxing spot to stay and it’s central to everything there is to see and do in the area. […]

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