• About Us
  • US Maps
  • US Camping
    • CAMPING MAP
    • MT
    • AL
    • NC
    • AZ
    • ND
    • CA
    • NE
    • CO
    • NJ
    • FL
    • NM
    • GA
    • NV
    • IA
    • NY
    • ID
    • OR
    • IL
    • PA
    • KY
    • SC
    • LA
    • SD
    • MA
    • TN
    • MD
    • TX
    • ME
    • UT
    • MI
    • VA
    • MN
    • WA
    • MO
    • WY
  • US Travel Tales
    • Travel Map
    • MO
    • AL
    • NC
    • AZ
    • ND
    • CA
    • NE
    • CO
    • NM
    • FL
    • NV
    • GA
    • NY
    • IA
    • OR
    • ID
    • PA
    • IL
    • SC
    • KY
    • SD
    • LA
    • TN
    • MA
    • TX
    • MD
    • UT
    • ME
    • VA
    • MI
    • WA
    • MN
    • WY
  • Boondocking
    • Boondocking How To
    • Boondocking Sites
  • US RVing Tips
    • Overview (All Topics)
    • RVing With Pets
    • RV Lifestyle Tips
    • Volunteering & Hosting
    • Solar Power
    • Health Care
    • RV Mods & Upgrades
    • US Blog Links & Resources

Wheeling It: Tales From a Nomadic Life

On the Road Since 2010, Traveling Across USA & Europe With Pets

  • Europe Tips
  • Europe Travel Maps
  • Europe Travel Tales
    • Denmark
    • Spain
    • France
    • Sweden
    • Germany
    • UK
    • Portugal
  • Europe Blog Links & Resources
  • Privacy Policy

The Town That Captured Our Hearts – Peñíscola, Spain

March 27, 2019 by libertatemamo 28 Comments

Pre-Post Note: We’ve made it back home and have been busy with the crazy business of un-packing the rig & cleaning it out (who knew part-timing would be so exhausting?), so I took a short blog break to get that sorted. Back to the good stuff now….

After our short stint boondocking in the coastal wilderness we made the easy 15-min drive into town to settle into the nicest campground and most stunning Spanish city we’d stayed in thus far.

A Place Packed With Historical & Visual Treasures

Welcome to Peñíscola 

I have to admit that Peñíscola captured our hearts from the get-go.

It’s the kind of coastal Spanish town that dreams are made of, or at least my kind of dreams. It’s visually stunning with miles of white sandy beach and a wide palm-tree-lined boardwalk that leads across an isthmus of land to a rocky peninsula and the deep aqua-green sea beyond.

The peninsula (Peñíscola is evolved from the latin for “peninsula”) or “city in the sea” is where the old part of town is located and it’s most certainly the highlight of the place. It’s teeny by most standards, only 67 m (220 feet) high and a few km wide, but it is packed with historical and visual treasures.

A lighthouse, white-washed houses, a castle and the aqua-blue sea beyond…oh my!!

Habitation can be traced back to the 1st century BC with Iberians, Phoenicians, Greeks, Carthaginians, Romans, Byzantines and later the Arabs all laying claim to this tiny piece of rock. In the 13th century the Knights Templar took over, destroying the Muslim fortifications and building a magnificent and suitably imposing stone castle (Castillo de Peñíscola) that dominates the view to this day. Even a pope lived here, and just not any pope but rather the infamous “Antipope” Benedict XIII (Pedro de Luna), who called the castle his home from 1415 to 1423. It’s quite a rich history…

Old town cafe
Old town streets
Old town fortifications

The castle is incredible and well worth the mere EUR 5 it costs to visit, but the rest of old town is equally stunning with rows of glistening white-washed houses, hundreds of stone steps and narrow pebblestone alleyways that weave their way through it all and seem to lead to hidden views at every turn. There are dozens of cafes where you can sip, eat and take in the view, no less than two beautiful churches, a house entirely covered with shells (Casa De La Conchas) and, bestill my beating heart, a LIGHTHOUSE!!

I believe I swooned a little when I first saw it.

Walking on the beach towards the old city. Literally no-one around…
One of several natural parks in new town

The newer part of town is not quite as pretty as the peninsula, but still has it’s own charm. There are miles of beachfront apartments, many of which seem to have been built in a mass frenzy of construction and later abandoned, likely casualties of the big Spanish recession from 2008–2014. This part of town feels a bit run down and certainly way less “posh” than bigger tourist spots like Sitges, but it’s recovering rapidly and you see the results of that as you explore around. The boardwalk along the beach is impeccable, there are several natural parks (some of which are brand new), and there’s all stuff you need with multiple good grocery stores and plenty of restaurants to sample the local fare.

View up the castle steps
View from inside the castle to the {{swoon}} lighthouse
View from the top of the castle towards new town

A Great Little Campground

We also lucked out with a great campground to explore it all.

Our site was HUGE!

Camping Eden is a quiet, relaxed kind of place located literally right next to the beach only ~20 minutes pleasant walk along the water to downtown Peñíscola. Once again we used our ASCI card, paying only EUR 20 for the site. With the discount we fully expected to get a puny site off to the side, so we were rather surprised to be assigned a huge site right in the “posh” part of the campground. It was at least twice the size of our rig (we could easily have parked lengthwise) with nice privacy, a large “sitting area” and even an on-site dish-washing sink and water.  What a cute spot!

The only potential “gotcha” was a few low-hanging branches which our Dutch neighbors promptly warned us about when we arrived.

Camp was full, but VERY quiet!
The boardwalk from camp along the beach into town

“The last motorhome went bang” they explained, crushing their hands together quite dramatically. “You want us to move our car?”

“No don’t worry, we’ll be fine” I replied confidently, having already sized up the site & trees. “You should have seen our last rig”.

The latter remark caused me to burst out laughing hysterically, likely explaining the she’s-got-a-few-screws-loose look I got from the neighbors. However after watching us slot into the site like a well-oiled, hand-signaling, rig-expert-parking-machine I think they were rather impressed.

“Very nice” they said, clearly stunned by our parking skills

What can I say, 9 years of squeezing a 40-foot “beast” into ridiculously tight spaces teaches you a thing or two. Parking LMB is, by comparison, mere child’s play. Pffft….!

The beach by new town
Old town alleyways
Old town church

The Town Was Wonderfully Laid-Back

As an additional bonus the town was laid back, I mean REALLY laid-back.

This place just lends itself to panoramas. Taken from inside old town.

There was almost no-one around, and by that I mean only a few people on miles of beach and barely a soul on the streets of old town. A big part of this was thanks to the time of year. This is a summer town and it’s winter season, so most of the restaurants aren’t open and a lot of the businesses are still closed. It’s a bit of a downside if you’re really into going out or shopping, but IMO it’s TOTALLY worth if your gold is to experience a place like this without the insane crowds of summer.

Purrrfect weather, no-one around, and a stunning Spanish city all to ourselves? oh yeah, exactly the way we both like it!

And another one. This time from the peninsula over the isthmus into new town.

We Enjoy Several Days Of Just Hanging Out

Peñíscola gripped us so much that we ended up extending our campground stay twice.

We enjoyed the quiet campground (I tell you, European campgrounds are SO quiet!), had fun mingling with our international neighbors (lots of Dutch and Scandinavian folks in camp, most of which had come down for the entire winter season), and totally dug the beach and local town.

Casa De La Conchas
The lighthouse tower
Pebblestone streets

Basically we were in our own little beach paradise, and if we didn’t have the urge to see other places we might have stayed for good. Peñíscola is the kind of place where your imagination can run free, where stories of yore speak to you from the stone steps, where ghosts of days past accompany you on the cobblestone streets and where you can lose yourself in the white-blue layers of houses and ocean. It’s quite a spot.

But alas, the wanderlust is strong and there are always new places to tempt the heart. So after our two extensions we decided to turn the rig north and explore our way home. There would be much, much more to see…

Views from the top of the castle in old town. What a place!

Share this:

  • Pinterest
  • Facebook
  • Twitter
  • Tumblr
  • Email

Like this:

Like Loading...

Related

« Our First Wild Camp In Spain! Costa Del Azahar
A Quick Stop In Costa Dorada – Torredembarra, Spain »

We LOooVE Comments, So Please Do

  1. j. mohr says

    March 27, 2019 at 2:15 pm

    It looks so inviting…l8ke my kind of city…and having a beach doesn’t hurt…..glad you first trip out was so good..

    Reply
    • libertatemamo says

      March 28, 2019 at 12:29 am

      It was really nice, and even better thanks to low season. Great time to be here IMO.

      Nina

      Reply
  2. Bob Martel says

    March 27, 2019 at 2:24 pm

    Looks lovely!

    I’m starting to wonder if you’ll ever come back to the U.S.

    Reply
  3. Joan says

    March 27, 2019 at 2:44 pm

    This!!!

    Reply
  4. Lisa Cantrell says

    March 27, 2019 at 3:03 pm

    Oh, Nina as usual your photos and writing take my breath away and I am transported in all but body to this wonderful place. Thank you so much for sharing your journey.

    Reply
    • Camille says

      March 28, 2019 at 5:44 am

      Yes, second Lisa, thank you for sharing!

      Reply
  5. Terry E McKnight says

    March 27, 2019 at 4:14 pm

    Wow! Nice.

    Reply
  6. Carolyn Burelbach says

    March 27, 2019 at 5:00 pm

    Wow! Gorgeous place. Thank you for the blog post.

    Reply
  7. Jodee Gravel says

    March 27, 2019 at 5:25 pm

    Just stunning!! It sounds like you found Nirvana with beautiful weather and perfect views 🙂

    I bet you’d blow their minds if they could see you park the Beast!

    Reply
    • libertatemamo says

      March 28, 2019 at 12:28 am

      Totally. We were quite snazzy at parking the “beast” after all our years in her, although we did have a few close calls. I still remember the time we parked at Fort De Soto State Park. It was sooooo tight (so many knotted tree branches) that a literal crowd formed us to watch. Some even started taking bets! We got her in, but only after around 50 hair-raising back and forth inching moves. The crowd clapped when we were done LOL. We never tried that again!

      Nina

      Reply
  8. renee says

    March 27, 2019 at 5:32 pm

    You’re baaaaack!!! Have missed you!

    Reply
  9. Sue Malone says

    March 27, 2019 at 8:45 pm

    What a truly delightful place you found. I had to laugh at the dare I say it, “cocky” parking attitude. We get that same attitude when people watch us hook up the Tracker, amazed at our skill and speed. We just hope we don’t happen to screw up when someone is watching. And parking? yeah, we are good at that too, and I know exactly what you mean. People don’t expect it, but after years of doing it, it becomes second nature. great story. Now I wish I could see that Spanish town someday

    Reply
    • libertatemamo says

      March 28, 2019 at 12:24 am

      Totally! Another funny little encounter. At a campground further north I had a bunch of folks wave and point at me when I was driving the rig. I guess it’s similar to the US, where not that many women drive “bigger” vehicles? Anyway I had a giggle at that one too.

      Nina

      Reply
  10. LenSatic says

    March 27, 2019 at 8:49 pm

    Where are all the people? Did you land drive into the Twilight Zone?

    Reply
    • libertatemamo says

      March 28, 2019 at 12:14 am

      I know…crazy right? Winter really is the low season here. We love it.

      Nina

      Reply
  11. Liam says

    March 28, 2019 at 2:00 am

    Looks like you had a fantastic time at Peñíscola. The city really looks welcoming and interesting, I hope I find the time and dedication to actually visit it one day, ha-ha 🙂

    Reply
  12. Suzanne Daigle says

    March 28, 2019 at 2:27 am

    How wonderful to read about your European travels as I enjoy my new nomad life in the US. I savor every word, description, tale and photo. Receiving an email with your blog is like a birthday gift every time.

    Reply
  13. Rob says

    March 28, 2019 at 6:16 am

    It just looks good!

    Reply
  14. Angie Quantrell says

    March 28, 2019 at 7:10 am

    Gorgeous! I didn’t even know I wanted to visit this location! You take excellent photos!

    Reply
  15. Paul says

    March 28, 2019 at 9:40 am

    My wife and I are thinking about renting a motorhome and touring in the south of France and Spain in the Spring of 2020. Our only language is English. We rented a motorhome in Scandinavia in 2018 and had no problem communicating. Based on your experience, could we get by communicating with locals (e.g., campground operators) in Spain and France using English?

    Reply
    • libertatemamo says

      March 28, 2019 at 10:07 am

      Absolutely! In campgrounds they always speak English. Local tourist offices also pretty much always have an English speaker on hand. And big towns are very multi-national. Lots of British travel around so they cater to that. In smaller towns, smaller restaurants and grocery stores it’ll be more hit and miss, but with a bit of Google translate, hand signals and some imagination you’ll be able to get your point across.

      Nina

      Reply
  16. Kai says

    March 28, 2019 at 12:31 pm

    I just want to say how glad I am to read your travel posts once again. The European travels are just as fascinating as the ones through the U.S. Your photos are wonderful as well!

    Reply
  17. Donna m Sims says

    March 28, 2019 at 4:01 pm

    You must be having a ball. What gorgeous pictures. Keep em comin’. Thanks.

    Reply
  18. Cate says

    March 30, 2019 at 1:17 am

    Wow! Beautiful photos! Are the streets always so clean? I didn’t see one piece of garbage in any of your photos! That is totally amazing to me! Not anything out of place. Is this an unusually clean European town or are they all that way? That would be beautiful to live in.

    Reply
  19. Samantha says

    April 1, 2019 at 4:21 pm

    Oh my goodness I want to go and retire there right now.

    Reply
  20. MotorhomersRus says

    April 3, 2019 at 10:11 pm

    We luv Peñíscola
    Been twice in 6 months
    Further down the coast now

    Reply
  21. Ladakh tour packages says

    April 10, 2019 at 3:58 am

    Roaming around Peniscola spain through your blog is really inspiring. The pictures are adorable and i loved the way you shared the complete blog. Thanks for sharing and i am definitely looking forward to visit this place.

    Reply

Trackbacks

  1. A Quick Stop In Costa Dorada – Torredembarra, Spain – Wheeling It says:
    May 29, 2019 at 5:27 am

    […] our progression home from Peñíscola was kind of […]

    Reply

A Comment For Your Thoughts? Cancel reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *

This site uses Akismet to reduce spam. Learn how your comment data is processed.

Where Are We Today?

Home Base, SW France

About Us

Europe Travel Maps

Top Blog Posts

  • Moving To Europe V - Pet Transport Options (By Sea, By Air, Pet Carriers & More)
  • The Splendor Of Scenic Highway 395
  • 8 Tips For Visiting & Photographing Niagara Falls
  • Moving To Europe VII - Shipping Your RV From USA to Europe
  • Château Living Part II – Interior Details

Archives

Subscribe Via Email

Disclosure Notice: WheelingIt is a participant in the Amazon Services LLC Associates Program, an affiliate advertising program designed to provide a means to earn fees by linking to Amazon.com and affiliated sites. As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.

Wheelingit US Camping Map

Reviews of every place we camped 2010-2018. Click to explore and enjoy!

Connect With Us

Want more Wheelingit? Connect with us by subscribing to one of our feeds!
 
Twitter Instagram
RSS YouTube

Tip The Beer Fund

Feeling the love? Share it with a contribution towards the Wheelingit beer fund (or rum fund, depending on weather & other random factors). We'll be sure to raise a glass to your health!
♥ ♥ ♥ ♥
COPYRIGHT INFO © 2024 Wheeling It. Share and enjoy, but please don't swipe it. All material, text and pictures in this blog are copyrighted. Should you be interested in using them please feel free to contact me and I’ll be happy to talk about it!

© 2025 · Wheelingit · Built on the Genesis Framework

This website uses cookies to improve your browsing experience Got It!
To find out more, or learn how to change your cookie settings, click here Read more
Privacy & Cookies Policy

Privacy Overview

This website uses cookies to improve your experience while you navigate through the website. Out of these cookies, the cookies that are categorized as necessary are stored on your browser as they are as essential for the working of basic functionalities of the website. We also use third-party cookies that help us analyze and understand how you use this website. These cookies will be stored in your browser only with your consent. You also have the option to opt-out of these cookies. But opting out of some of these cookies may have an effect on your browsing experience.
Necessary
Always Enabled
Necessary cookies are absolutely essential for the website to function properly. This category only includes cookies that ensures basic functionalities and security features of the website. These cookies do not store any personal information.
SAVE & ACCEPT
 

Loading Comments...
 

    %d