A Watery Oasis -> Cibola National Wildlife Refuge, AZ
We take a break from our scheduled programming to relax and recharge our minds. For this purpose I’m going to transport you to a watery oasis in a land far, far away.
Imagine yourself thus…
You’re deep in a cottonwood forest. You’re alone here, of course, because no one knows this secret place. You’re walking on a hidden trail with yellow trees that bow and curve towards each other high over your head, like long-lost lovers reaching across the sky. The wind rustles soothingly through the leaves and the sweet sound of birds chatters amongst them. You follow the path to a large lake, stopping to admire the paw tracks of a bobcat and the millions of leaf patterns on the ground.
And then you see them.
Not one, not even ten, but hundreds and thousands of birds. They pack the water like bees swarming in a hive. Canadian Geese, snow geese, ducks and more are intermingled in one enormous moving mass…preening, playing, fighting, loving and talking. The sound is incredible, like some kind of crazy symphony as everyone talks and squawks, notes and voices rising and falling in crescendo as each section makes its call. Then something spooks them and they rise like a black tidal wave, calling loudly and flapping in intricate patterns until they soothe themselves and settle back down. It’s incredibly peaceful and oddly soothing. A world away from the harsh, desert environment of the past weeks.
And yet we’ve only come ~50 miles north.
Welcome to the little known secret of Cibola National Wildlife Refuge.
The Wildlife Refuges of Arizona are some of the state’s most surprising hidden gems. Mixed amongst cactus and crazy rocky desert plains you’ll find sweet, moist, green slices of wildlife heaven. We visited our first one (Buenos Aires) last year and we’ve been planning for more ever since. Along the fertile banks of the Colorado River there are no less than 4 AZ refuges, two of which (Imperial and Cibola) occupy ~40-mile stretch between Blythe and Yuma. Within these refuges you can find over 250 species of birds and enjoy an environment so different from the desert it seems like a totally different country. When we’ve had our fill of dry, we come here to link with the water and replenish our lust for green.
Such a treat it is!
We chose Cibola primarily because we had inside connections….people connections. Our RV buddies Rick and JoAnne, and Joe and Marlene have both been volunteering here for the winter, offering 3 days a week for a lovely full hookup site by the refuge. Joe, in particular, is a very accomplished photographer and spends much of his free time with his camera and very long lens (yes, I have lens envy), so if you want to see some amazing pics of the wildlife here and other areas he’s traveled, check out his website. They invited us over, and we took the opportunity to re-join with our Technomadia buddies (who were just coming out of the craziness of Quartszite) to stay for a week and enjoy the refuge.
Who could refuse good friends, guaranteed Happy Hour and a personalized tour? Plus, all of these folks are lovely people, and I was curious to hear about their jobs here
The refuge met all my expectations and more. It’s a sweet little spot with several lake areas, a driving tour and a short hike amongst the cottonwoods. Plus there are nearby historic attractions such as Cibola Cabin and Hart Mine. We stayed outside the refuge and spent several days enjoying the birds and exploring the area. Perfect!
Tomorrow we’ll be moving on to new areas, plus I’ll be (hopefully) finishing up my boondocking series and (maybe) starting to work on something even bigger (we’ll see). We’re also in the throws of our yearly planning and have a very general, loose plan to go vaguely North for a few weeks after which we may shoot to San Diego for some beach and big city time before we (once again) head north for Spring. This summer we’re headed to OR/WA (no surprise there) with tentative end of year plans to new sights further east. It’s still all very “jello” but it’s slowly coming together. When we’ll know, you’ll know.
In the meantime if you’re in the area DO come by and see the Cibola Refuge. Our volunteer buddies staff the visitor’s center from 8-3:30 daily. Visitors have to remain in their cars on the loop drive (to avoid disturbing wildlife), but people and dogs are allowed to walk on the 1-mile refuge nature trail on site.
What an interesting place right in the middle of the desert! It looks like the best of both worlds to me, not to mention the great people working there. I’m champing at the bit to get on the road to see and experience areas just like this one. Thanks for showing it to us.
Sue
This was definitely a nice combo…good people, good place.
Good luck w/ your plans to get on the road!
Nina
You are such a good writer!
Totally agree!
Thanks both!!
Nina
We drove past there last year when we left Yuma. That really does look like a great place. Nice to be near water sometimes. Although, we had our own personal lake outside the RV yesterday.
LOL…yeah, I know those “personal lakes”. That’s when you hope you parked high enough to avoid the RV going swimming. Hopefully it’s all cleared up for you now. Warm, dry forecast ahead here in AZ
Nina
I am green with envy! Hopefully sometime this month we will be visiting some of AZ’s NWR. Thanks for the lovely tour 🙂
Cool! You’ll be here before you know it!
Nina
Really enjoyed seeing you and Paul and having you as our “guests”. Great photos – even with out having Joe’s super high power telephoto.
Travel Safe!
Thanks so much for your hospitality, tours & company! I really enjoyed our visit.
Nina
Diana and I second John’s sentiment. Your words alone set the scenery…but the pics are amazing, too! The pheasant photo is outstanding, Nina. Thanks for posting!
Jim
The pheasant was a nice surprise since we hadn’t seen one on our first drive through the refuge. Joe’s sharp eyes caught it when he took us out on our personalized tour a few days later.
Nina
Isn’t Arizona amazing! Another cool place is a state wildlife area – Whitewater Draw, near Bisbee. What’s special about it is the 20,000+ sandhill cranes that winter there. Talk about noisy! http://www.azgfd.gov/outdoor_recreation/wildlife_area_whitewater.shtml
Whitewater Draw is another of our fav spots. We were there in 2013:
https://www.wheelingit.us/2013/03/19/birding-boondocking-whitewater-draw-wildlife-refuge-az/
Nina
You might enjoy Colin Fletcher’s: The Man Who Walked Through Time.
http://www.amazon.com/Man-Who-Walked-Through-Time/dp/0679723064/ref=sr_1_cc_1?s=aps&ie=UTF8&qid=1422823418&sr=1-1-catcorr&keywords=The+Man+who+walked+through+time%3F
I’m enjoying “River” too…about his hike down the Colorado at age 67.
Oh sweet! Just my kind of book. Thanks for the link!
Nina
I am constantly in awe of your ability to share about an experience like this. See, I’m pretty sure we’ve been with you the entire past week sharing in these experiences (looks out window, yup, you’re really here).. but yet your post & photos makes it seems like a brand new to me enchanting adventure.
Well done my friend. Well done.
I live in my own, strange mind half the time 😉 it’s been great sharing this with you.
Nina
Thanks for sharing. Love reading your posts and look forward to retirement in a couple of years being able to head out in our 40 ft. Monaco for more than a week at a time. We would have never considered boondocking in our beast until we ran across your blog.
It took us quite some time before we even DARED to go boondocking. We’ve learned alot in our past 5 years and are getting more comfortable with it every year.
Nina
Again, you have composed an awesome blog post! Pheasants are my favorite birds. I used to see one on my drive to work a few years back, (work somewhere different now). Love, Love, Love your pics and descriptions!
Thanks for sharing.
They’re most definitely beautiful birds.
Nina
You’ve captured so well the essence of Cibola with your lovely words and photos, Nina. Wildlife refuges are a place of refuge for us two-legged creatures, as well, if we allow ourselves to sink into the wildness and beauty. We’re on our way to Whitewater Draw later this week and looking forward to the crazy, magical cacophony of thousands of sandhill cranes. Adorable photo of the Burrowing owl!
Oh excellent! I think you guys are gonna love Whitewater Draw. Hopefully most of the birds are still there. We’re getting to the end of the season, but there should still be a good selection at the lake.
Nina
I don’t need a nudge or a second invitation for Cibola is a definite number on our list. Thanks a lot for the headsup, I just wished RJR will still be volunteering there when the time comes as I would like to meet them too.
That is an interesting grey greenish sunset.
It sure was nice to have the “insider” connection when we got here. We got a tour of parts of the refuge that visitors never get to see, so we felt pretty special. Joe & Marlene *may* come back next year.
Nina
Looks lovely! Another place to add to our list. We’ll be exploring several of your previous recommendations in Southern Arizona over the next couple of months. Thanks for all the great info! -Linda
Excellent. We’re getting PERFECT weather in AZ right now. It should be nice in the lower desert at least for another two months before it starts to get too hot (for my liking anyway).
Nina
Nina…I think you give Joe a run for his money as far as gorgeous photos. I do not think in all the years we have followed you that I have seen a nonperfect (not sure that is a word) photo.
Cibola National Wildlife Refuge looks so lovely. I didn’t know we were so close when we were in Quartzsite.
Thanks! I don’t think I can quite match Joe’s close-ups, but I did my best. It was fun to try.
Nina
Great post, as usual.
Though we are not on the road yet, we are considering part-timing in Tucson, so your Arizona posts are particularly inspiring!
If you make it to Port Townsend again this summer and want a local’s perspective, please let me know…I would be happy to show you some places you would love, but missed last time.
That’s a fine offer Sondra! We loved (loved, loved) Port Townsend so getting an insiders tour would be fabulous.
Nina
I’ve heard of this refuge but not been there. Now it goes on the list. Of course I have seen a bit of water lately in Yarnell.
It’s a worthy visit. We have yet to explore the sister refuge at Imperial which larger and, so I hear, also fabulous. Always more stuff on the list…
Nina
really enjoyed your break. We live inSun City Az and are dealing with selling our house,moving into our first motorhome that seems to be haunted. They have replaced the windshield twice and even though the coach has not moved, it cracks vertically top to bottom. I was home for this time and thought I had been shot! So nice to take a restful meander through th cottonwoods with you. I really needed that!
Oh noooo…cracking windshield sounds like something is twisting the coach (frame). You may want to post that one on the RV forums and see if anyone has any good advice. Likely there will be folks with the same rig who’ve seen the same issue. Hope you get it fixed!
Nina
For someone who has said she is not a birder, your photos are amazing. I have added Cibola to our list. It looks like a wonderful place to visit.
Thanks Lu. Wish I could have gotten some closer pics, but my piddly lens won’t do it, so I satisfied myself with composition and selective cropping.
Nina
A lovely guided visualization to start my morning – wonderful! The pheasant is a great surprise!! Thank you for sharing such a unique place.
Yup, the pheasant was a wonderful surprise. Didn’t even know they were in the area. Of course, I’m not much of a “birder” tee hee.
Nina
” You’re walking on a hidden trail with yellow trees that bow and curve towards each other high over your head, like long-lost lovers reaching across the sky.”
Your words produce an imagery equal to your beautiful photographs. Well done.
I like to try and get some poetry in there. My mind works in mysterious ways 🙂
Nina
I’ve been wanting to visit Cibola, this year Hector and I did get a brief peek at Buenos Aires and loved it. Cibola will definitely be on the list for next year. Thank you for this lovely post.
Brenda
Hector would love the photography here!
Nina
Ahhh …. your blog is so relaxing and simply beautiful posting. Just settled my jarred nerves, such a lovely couple and pet family
Glad I could send some “peace” your way. It’s always part of my goal when I write the blog 🙂
Nina
It was a real treat to read this article. I felt like I am there already. Such vivid descriptions, such a joy. We like so much to read your posts. It gives us fuel to keep us going towards this coming October, when we intend to arrive and start our full time RVing.
Congrats on your upcoming fulltime plans! Hope you have many good years on the road!
Nina
Wow, Nina, you rally know how to find an oasis in a desert. Your photos and words match in beauty. Any one in the area should take in the opportunity. It seems so very worthy. Thanks!
Thanks for all of your interesting information. We are now at Cibola National Wildlife Refuge because of your recent post. Ray and I were warmly welcomed by Murlene, JoAnn and Rick. I teased Murlene that I have been “blog stocking” you guys for awhile getting very valuable info on places to camp. Thanks for all of your effort to share stuff with the many! Hope to catch up with you sometime face to face. Deb
How fun!! I got a message from Joe yesterday telling me a few folks had visited from the blog, so I’m happy to hear the place is getting some action. Hopefully most of the birds are still around? I know the big migration happens very soon.
It’s a beautiful little refuge! Enjoy!
Nina
Hello, Enjoyed reading this article about Cibola, wondering if you found a place to camp nearby?
Yup we boondocked on BLM land opposite the refuge. Almost everything on the east side of the road there (for ~3-5 miles south) is BLM. There is also a pay BLM campground (Oxbow Campground) just north of the refuge.
Nina